The quintessentially South Australian pie floater was reputedly invented by a Port Pirie baker known as Ern ‘Shorty’ Bradley. It consists of an upside-down pie in a bowl of pea soup, topped with tomato sauce. It is eaten with a spoon. Sometimes the tomato sauce is replaced with vinegar or Worcestershire sauce.
The culinary heritage of the pie floater probably comes from northern England where pea and pie suppers are a traditional form of entertainment. The term ‘floater’ is also used in parts of England, where dumplings for soup are described as floaters or sinkers. It’s not clear how this term came to be applied to the pie and soup combination.
Ern Bradley operated a bakery in Port Pirie and, from 1914, advertised an evening coffee stall in the Port Pirie Recorder. This may have been a pie cart like the ones that operated in Adelaide from the 1860s onwards. It was positioned near the Casino cinema, and Bradley invited patrons to “slip across to the Coffee stall and have Good Supper”. He offered “Hot Pies and Pasties and a Specialty. Hot Saveloys, Rolls and Floaters.
The Floater became a popular dish at the many pie carts that operated in Adelaide in the late 19th and early 20th century. At the turn of the century, there were 13 carts operating in the city. However from the late 1930s, as the operators ceased trading, the Adelaide City Council refused to re-issue licenses and by 1958 only two remained. The last pie cart was closed in 2010, but the pie floater is available through bakeries, including several 24-hour establishments, so late-night revellers can get their floater fix .
In 2003, the South Australian National Trust recognised the pie floater as a South Australian Heritage Icon.